A Walk Around Civray

I finally got round to walking Les Circuit Historique de Civray. I have come across various plaques in the town indicating places of historical note but I had yet to follow the walking route itself. This has now been remedied and may be of interest. (There again...maybe not...but you are getting it anyway!!!!)

Carte De Circuit Historiques De Civray

 

First stop was the Tourist Information Office itself, where I collected the free leaflet telling of the route with some accompaning notes. Unfortunately, these were in French - maybe I missed the English version or there isn't one. My French, however, was up to the task and the various plaques around the town are both in French and English anyway.

First stop was the building that houses the Tourist Office and the local Musée du Civraisien - L'Immeuble du Parc. This building was built in the 18th century and the Musée is on the top floor, accessed by a spiral, limestone staircase inside a square tower. The roof is an impressive oak-beamed affair and the archaeological remains on display include, among many others, an engraved reindeer bone which was found in the nearby caves of Chaffaud in Savigné.

L'Immeuble Du Parc

Close by stands the impressive Eglise de St-Nicolas which dominates Place Leclerc and the centre of the town.

Façade De L'Eglise St-Nicolas

This Church is one of the finest Romanesque churches in Poitou-Charentes and is thought to have been built in the second half of the 12th century. Its triptych-style façade (God, that sounds good eh!!!!!) is elaborately decorated with a multitude of carvings, covering a variety of themes - among them, the zodiac, the foolish virgins and the Assumption of Mary. The church is built to a traditional layout and is crowned with an octagonal lantern-tower. Inside are amazing 14th century frescoes.

Christ Surrounded By Emblems Of The Evangelists

The Altar

Fresco Detail Above The Altar

Fresco On Altar Ceiling

Place Leclerc is the main square in the town and was the site of the original Les Halles (market) when the square itself was called Place Royale. Les Halles were later moved and rebuilt in the Art Déco style in the adjacent Place Gambetta. On the opposite side of the Place, facing L'Eglise St-Nicolas, is what was L'Hôtel des Trois Piliers and which is now a bank; the hotel having closed in 1910. On the roof of this 16th century building can still be seen the bell which announced to travellers the hotel's presence. The building displays an interesting tower, door and windows.

The Hôtel de Ville in Place General De Gaulle nearby was built in the 19th century on the site of a Benedictine Convent. First a ribunal it is now only a minor tribunal.

The hotel 'de la Prevoté, built at the end of the 15th century, was the residence of the governor and
then the 'seneschal' (royal law officer) of Civray.

This building is also called the Louis XIII hotel: he slept here with his wife Anne d'Autriche and his mother Marie de Medicis in 1616.

The hotel is characterized by its spiral staircase installed in the tower, its pediment with pinnacles and a window of Renaissance style.

French savings banks are a relative recent thing. The one in Civray was established in 1836 and this building became its base in 1908.

The André Theuriet College was built during the second empire on the site of the Benedictine Convent created in 1637. André Theuriet (1833-1907) was an novelist and poet, member of the French Academy in 1896.
'Allée des Capucines' is due to the presence of Capuchin monks in Civray in 1613.

At number 32 Duplessi Street, have a look at the Pressac's house. It is the house of Norbert Pressac, priest of the village of St Gaudent, where he planted the first Freedom Tree (symbol of the French Revolution) in 1790.

At the corner of rue du Temple and rue Dupesis, observe the metallic box. It is the command of a gas street lamp.

The Perrin Bridge had been destroyed by a rise. It had been replaced by the Grand' Pont, built with stones of the medieval castle.

The retirement house 'le logis' had been created during the '50s by Doctor Guillard that gave a medieval tyle.

The small toer was part of a fortified door. The 'Aa' canal was the moats.

(Still to complete)

If you want to see more photies click here.

A Dear Friend

René Roucher was a small man but with a big heart. Not my words, but those of the Parish Priest who conducted the service when the remains of my much missed neighbour and friend were brought into Eglise de Saint Nicolas. About two hundred townsfolk were gathered to give witness to the life of a popular and much-loved Civraisien.

I find it hard to believe that a man whom I had only known for such a short time is now dead. He had gone out of his way to make me feel welcome in his town..........

I came home from town one day to be greeted by the sound of someone cutting their grass. On going into my house it sounded closer still. There was René with a strimmer cutting the grass in my back garden!!!! He would not accept any help and it was all I could do to gather up the cuttings themselves. I insisted on a glass of wine in appreciation.

Then when my logs were delivered, both he and Hugette (his wife) insisted on helping barrow the wood through their garage and into my garden shed. I don't have access to the street except through my house.

Then on another occasion, I came home to find him pruning my Mirabelle (a type of plum) tree. I insisted on doing it myself under his instructions as to which branches needed pruning.

A gift of a miniature bottle of whisky was enough to bring a tear to his eye......

And then there were the nights spent in his house with Hugette and Jean-Pierre. A glass of wine or a glass of cider and something to eat. A chat, a laugh.... It seems longer than two months......

Jean-Pierre was keeping me right about what to do in regard to the practice at French funerals. Although Catholic, I expected the accepted practice was going to be different from that in Scotland.

Anyway, he came round to my house yesterday morning and asked if I wanted, along with fifteen other neighbours, to contribute towards buying flowers for René's funeral service. I agreed and he asked for details with regard the spelling of my name.

This morning I bought a card for Hugette - one which included a piece of paper which had a selection of intimations to chose from. I went back up to the house and used Google Translate to pick the most appropriate which I then wrote in the card and then popped into Hugette's post box. I then had an early lunch before getting ready to go down to Church.

On arriving at the Church, I saw Jean-Pierre there and about 200 other folk too! Madame Hugette arrived and many mourners went forward to kiss her and offer their condolences.

We all followed the coffin and the family into the Church and took our places. Again, I sat beside Jean-Pierre who had kept a place for me. Hymns were sung and words were spoken. I couldn't make much of it out. At one point the Parish Priest mentioned René's friends and neighbours who were there and also "son voisin d'ecosse". I was really surprised and Jean-Pierre gave me a nudge in affirmation.

At the end of the service, the whole congregation from the back of the Church to the front approached the coffin, blessed it with Holy Water and blessed themselves before processing back and out the Church. I followed Jean-Pierre to keep myself right and he approached Hugette, as many others did, and kissed her on both cheeks. I followed suit and then went up to the coffin to bless it and bless myself before turning and walking up the side aisle.

The Parish Priest approached me and shook my hand while addressing me as his "ami d'ecosse". He said something which I didn't catch and he repeated in stilting English that he (René) was a small man but he had a big heart, and I had to agree.

The family, as is tradition, then accompanied the body to the cemetery and the other mourners all dispersed. Jean-Pierre and myself to the Tabac where he had a coffee and I had a beer; I must confess, I needed something stronger.......

To René.......

I miss him......

Undo edits

Christmas Is Coming

Well I have been doing really well recently and I am finally getting the hang of things. I returned from Scotland after finishing some root treatment only to find that a small piece of filling has come loose. Not too much and not enough to cause any discomfort but nevertheless something that needs seeing to. Well surprise, surprise there are now no dentists in Civray according to Yugette (or Hugette as I have found her name to be spelled). The nearest one is in Charroux and so off I cycled to Charroux. (I could have 'phoned I know but my French is not good enough for a 'phone call - better face-to-face!). It was about 9 kilometres away and I took the quiet roads. Needless to say, I was too early (it being lunch time) and had to have a drink in the Tabac!!! Oh dear! Anyway, they were too busy for the forseeable future and I was directed to Romagne or Ruffec. I decided on Ruffec as it was easier to get to and decided that it could wait for another day.

I cycled back home and left it at that. Anyway, to cut a long story short....I ended up arranging an appointment in Ruffec for the 25th January!!!! It is a long time away but I thought that I would need to start getting into the system here in France sooner or later so I went for it!

I have had a great time visiting my next door neighbours - René and Hugette. On both occasions along with Jean-Pierre (my other neighbour), I have had a pleasant wee natter for an hour or so with a wee glass or two. I have been feeling part of the scene and it has been great.

Place François Mitterand

Car Park At Rue Victor Hugo

The bad weather back in Scotland was to catch up with us last night however. Instead of Hurricane Bawbags it was Le Tempête Joachim (dusnae huv the same ring tae it???). It was pretty bad and caused some tiles to move on the roof and water to start coming into the kitchen and the upstairs back room. I had to go up to Savigné and visit M Girdau to arrange a repair. I also had to visit the insurers to see if I was covered. I was but there was an excess of 280€. Ah well!

Flooded River From Place François Mitterand

Looking Towards Pont Des Barres

The town was showing signs of the damage done by the storm and also the River Charente itself was in full flow - much changed from the gentle flowing river of a few weeks before.

Water Rising From Pont Des Barres!

Looking Towards L'Eglise From Rue A. Ravarit

House By The Grand Pont From Boulevard Carnot

Anyway I had a wee coffee in the Tabac and and popped into the Café de la Paix for a kir before ma lunch. I began to read La Nouvelle République and caught sight of the obituaries (it is ma age!!!). Someone called René Roucher had died! It couldn't be??? No, there it was. René Roucher.....wife Hugette.......80 years old.......

I went to La Maison de la Presse (paper shop) to buy a copy of the paper and hurried up tae Jean-Pierre's. Yes it was true! I didn't know what to say. I mean, it takes me all my time to speak in French anyway! I left him to go to my house and Hugette came out of hers... I mumbled my condolences and exchanged kisses. She introduced me to her two sisters and I showed her the intimation in La Nouvelle République. It was a consolation it seemed..... I muttered something about René being such a fine, good and kind man, and then went home.

Place Gambetta - Love Me Tender!!!

Fed up with things, I went back down to town and had a meal in the Tabac followed by a few drinks in the Central Bar. The next hour was punctuated by some entertainment provided by the local pompiers trying to dismantle a TV aerial which had been partiallly blown down in the storm. It was attracting a lot of interest before being successfully completed as the evening light began to fail.

Haud Oan!!

Leaving the bar, I was approached by Jean-Pierre and I returned once more to the warmth of the bar where we joined with others in remembering our departed friend.......

Place Leclerc - Christmas Lights!

Lest We Forget

On the eleventh day at the eleventh hour......... I walked down to the town after breakfast to watch the Armistice Day ceremony on Place Le Clerc at the war memorial. There was a fair wee crowd as the small brass band wound its way around the narrow streets followed by some old soldiers, members of the gendarmerie municipale, some pompiers and other dignitaries. The band stopped some distance from the memorial itself whilst those and such as those stood in front of the flagpole at the memorial.

It was about 10.30 and the ceremony would take up those last 30 minutes until 11 o'clock itself. The flag was hoisted solemnly, flowers were laid at the foot of the memorial and various proceedings were to follow; the most notable of which was when a small group of children responded as each of the names of the local soldiers who had fallen in various wars were read out by the Marie.


Several speeches followed which I couldn't follow at all. The ceremony was concluded when two ex-soldiers were presented with medals by some dignatory on behalf of the President of France; one ex-soldier received his for services to the nation and the other ex-soldier received his for services overseas. The band struck up again and led the assembly off on another wee tour of the streets as everyone else dispersed and the church clock showed eleven.........Funnily enough, I can't recall the bells chiming??

I made my way back up to the supermarket for last minute shopping as the rest of the day would be marked by everything shutting and people remaining in their homes. And in keeping with French customs, that's exactly what I did.

Bus Tae Poitiers

Well an early start saw me walk down rue du Saint Clementin and wait at the bus stop next to the Laboratoire. Ma next door neighbour was waiting on the other side of the road for a bus going in the other direction. She was obviously trying to explain to me that I was at the wrong bus stop. I found it hard to convince her that I was going to Poitiers. She wasn't aware of a bus that went there.

I began to worry! Maybe she was right? I checked the timetable. No, it was there - 8.30 the bus to Poitiers. It was now 8.35!! Just at that it appeared round the corner. The ligne 106 to Poitiers! Gaun yersel!!!

Paying my 6€ for an aller simple I was soon on my way. A nice coach all to masel. It was a beautiful morning and the run afforded me the time to view the passing towns and villages on the way. It was only nearing Poitiers that I was joined by three other passengers and they were only going short distances. I got off at the Gare Routiere which is next to the Gare SNCF. I was familiar with Poitiers and made my way up to the plateau and the centre ville.

I had to post a birthday card for my god-daughter and found a post office where I bought a stamp and sent it off. A quick walk across to the Tourist Information Centre allowed me to access the internet on a free WiFi service and catch up on my e-mails. A handy toilet was also available and it being France the opportunity was not passed up.

I then spent an hour or so wandering about the shops and some interesting churches before going to the Bistrot du Bucher on rue Carnot. The maitre d' informed me that the table would be required by 1.15 (it was 12.30). I said that was OK and decided on the Menu Express at 11€. It was really good and I was able to relax when other tables became available and mine wouldn't be required



The afternoon was finished off with a couple of beers down by the Gare sitting in the sun. I was going to buy a Carte Avantage for cheap train tickets but the queues were so long ah couldn't be arsed. Besides the beer and sun were too tempting.

At four o'clock I walked across to the Gare Routiere for my bus back home. After a bit of a panic when I couldn't find my money, I was soon on my way. It was much busier on the way back and I dosed off in the heat of the evening sun.

Last stop and I was soon back in ma wee hoose havin a wee night cap after my exciting day oot!

A New Adventure

Well it's the start of another adventure. This time in France. This time for longer.

In early October the deed was done, the papers were signed and the furniture was unloaded and hastily arranged in my new hoose in Civray. It had been an uneventful journey from Scotland, stopping off in Ashford, Kent before an early morning EuroTunnel Shuttle and the journey down through France to Vienne. The weather was glorious and after signing a ream of papers, I was the owner of a 2 bedroom town house close to the centre of the pretty town of Civray.

It has been five weeks since then and I have been kept busy adjusting to my new life:

• arranging my bank accounts and money transfers
• arranging my house insurance
• arranging my direct debits for electricity, telephone / internet, and water / sewerage
• arranging and taking delivery of logs for the winter

It sounds easy enough but I had great help from my estate agent Chris, and my new neighbours René and Yugette. Without them I would still be floundering around in a daze.

Civray has everything you could ask for. All the services that you need; shops, supermarkets, church, doctors, dentists, bars, restaurants, hotels. It is in a beautiful situation on the banks of the River Charente amid the lovely Vienne countryside.

The early days were spent like a holiday before the reality set in....... I was now a resident of France! Initial visits from family left me with the business of settling in to a new life getting to know my surroundings and the practicalities of life in this lovely part of the Poitou-Charentes.

Transport basically involved my bicycles and local buses and trains. The latter two methods are a rarity and take a bit of planning to use.
There is a bus service - Monday to Friday - between Civray and Poitiers. It costs 6€ each way but if I buy a carnet of ten tickets the price comes down to 4.20€. Something I'll have to consider.

There is also a train service from the nearby Gare at St Saviol bringing Angouleme and Poitiers itself within reach. The four kilometres to St Saviol has to be undertaken by bicycle or - I have still to try - taxi. I have cycled to the station and it is no more than a half hour away. In repect of the trains, I will have to buy a Carte Avantage which for 20€ a year gives me the benefit of 25% off fares Monday - Friday; and 50% off fares Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays. (I think?).

The furnishings are now all assembled and in place - though there remains some things still to be bought. A priority is a kitchen table and Ikea in Tours will need a visit sooner or later. I have chairs but no table!!!!!